Maison Margiela 时装屋屋顶秧田工装
来源： 发表时间：2018-05-17 07:20:17
马丁-马吉拉 (Martin Margiela) 是1位以解构及重组衣服的技术而闻名的服装设计师，人称“解构怪才”。马丁-马吉拉 (Martin Margiela) 毕业于比利时安特卫普皇家艺术学院，是著名的安特卫普6君子之1。
透过马丁-马吉拉 (Martin Margiela) 的设计作品，我们不难发现这位设计大师有着无穷无尽的想象力。他设计的服装虽然“怪”，但还是有很多爱好他作品的人。同时，他对事物的看法和处事的风格都相当独特，例如，他从不在时装发布会中现身，虽然低调到绝迹，却依然难以抵挡他在全球时装设计界的名声鹊起。马丁-马吉拉 (Martin Margiela) 也更1直使用旧衣架、旧人像模型来摆设其新设计。马丁-马吉拉 (Martin Margiela)每季必推的艾滋T恤 (AIDS Tee)已成为很多潮人的收藏品。
品牌历史：
马丁-马吉拉 (Martin Margiela) 别名：解构怪才、解构主义大师、比利时安特卫普6君子 (The Antwerp Six) 之1。
1959年4月9日，马丁-马吉拉 (Martin Margiela) 诞生于比利时 Leuven，1980年肆业于安特卫普皇家艺术学院 (Antwerp's Royal Academy of Fine Arts)。1980~1985年期间，年轻的马丁-马吉拉 (Martin Margiela) 1直以自由设计师为生。1985~1987年间，马丁-马吉拉 (Martin Margiela) 担负 Jean Paul Gaultier 助手。1988年，马丁-马吉拉 (Martin Margiela) 推出以自己名字命名的品牌马丁€€马吉拉时装屋 (Maison Martin Margiela) 。1997年，马丁-马吉拉 (Martin Margiela) 出任老牌奢侈品品牌爱马仕 (Hermes) 女装设计总监。80年代，日本先锋设计师时尚教母川久保玲 (Rei Kawakubo，其时装品牌为 Comme des Garcons) 以其极端奇异的设计掀起颠覆传统时装的设计风潮，马丁-马吉拉 (Martin Margiela) 深受川久保玲之影响。
巴黎世家 (Balenciaga) 的设计师尼古拉斯 (Nicolas Ghesquiere) 1直是马丁-马吉拉 (Martin Mar订制职业装giela) 品牌的忠实粉丝，他曾屡次在公众场合宣称自己常穿马丁-马吉拉 (Martin Margiela) 品牌衣饰。
Maison Martin Margiela 2015春夏高定秀上演之际，“上任3把火”的创意总监John Galliano已低调将品牌改名为Maison Margiela。
John Galliano’s collection soared, hitting a wildly creative flow not seen€€or felt€€from him since he stepped into Maison Margiela. With Joan Baez singing “Diamonds and Rust” (1975) on the soundtrack, and references to contemporary youth consciousness filtered through social media apps, this was a collection that cut t椿记烧鹅工作服图片hrough layers of symbolism to reach toward something emotional about the current predicaments facing humanity.
On the one hand, there’s the urge to escape back to the land, and on the other, the compulsion to be constantly connected. “Some people have decided they’ve had enough,” Galliano reflected, in a preview. There were ’60s reportage photographs of American hippies and commune dwellers, and political graffiti work by Shepard Fairey on his pinboard at Margiela HQ. Overt references to the American past, to pioneers and isolated country sects, were evoked in tall hats, folksy skirts, and naive wool embroideries, but his whole creative drive was to mine the meaning of the intersections between past and present.
It literally meant looking deeply into garments, often stripping them away to their seams until they became cage-like soft sculptures, to reveal the underworkings spilling out, or as the designer put it, “to reduce it down to the memory of the emotion.” But then there would be the over-filters; the rainbow tongues that teens play 电力公司安全帽工作服with o广西2016工作服招标公告n novelty apps, crude, colorful drawings embroidered over faces, the visual communication methods of the moment, simultaneously registered.
There are many allusions, which could be pointed out, maybe politically resonant, maybe not. The one thing Galliano did want to make clear is, “I’m not talking about narratives any more.” Sobriety has taught him to appreciate being in the moment, and, by the look of what was on the runway, to rediscover the joy and hands-on discipline of focusing on pure creativity. How else to explain the madly off-hand chic of the red ostrich feather€€trimmed hat with a tweed a进入施工现场 工作服娃哈哈工作服制度symmetrical jacket and swagged miniskirt, the ingenious diagonal sweep of a toga dress, or an amazing navy velvet and black Lurex raincoat with its panels filled in with black chiffon? Looks like Galliano’s got his mojo back.
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